DUBROVNIK

If there’s one destination that was super high on my list and exceeded expectations, it was Dubrovnik. What a dream! I had intentionally stopped in Dubrovnik because I am a huge Game of Thrones fan. I was already on the Dalmation Coast visiting Split but just had to make one more stop down to Dubrovnik. I had to do it. I was on a GoT roll for the past year having visited, Malta and Cordoba. A lot of filming was conducted in Dubrovnik so it was an obvious no brainer - and I am so glad I made the decision to go.

I took the first bus out from Split down through the coastline through the Herzegovina border and into the split. The most beautiful sunrise woke me up and the excitement grew in my belly. I loved seeing all of the coastal towns, the jewel-blue water, and the sun. The sun! Weather was absolutely incredible - it was looking to be a warm 16C…in January! I couldn’t believe it. I could barely pinch myself. To say this was one of the highlights of my trip would be an understatement.

The bus pulled into the bus station and the apartment I was renting appeared to be a 20 minute walk away. Sweetness. But not sweetness because I didn’t realize how hilly Dubrovnik was! There were two routes: either go straight along the main road or turn left and go through the residential neighbourhood. I chose residential neighbourhood and GODDAMN - never doing that again! It was all uphill; I was so sweaty by the time I got to the apartment. But when I did arrive, the owner was there to greet me and the room was just perfect. It was small, compact and a nice 20-minute walk into the Walled City. I freshened up, changed my outfit, and started exploring immediately.

I was staying right by the new marina because I wanted to be walking distance to the bus station. Busses were frequently running but the walk was so gorgeous that I ended up walking everyday. I chose to walk by the cliffside to catch glimpses of the sea - absolutely stunning. I almost cried.

I was free to wander for the first day to get my bearings and to get acquainted with the city and of course, was met within a minute by an older gentleman who wanted to take me around town. We chatted, we went for Croatian wine, we went for burek, he took me beyond the wall and wandered along the rocky cliffs…so dreamy and romantic. But things went unromantic when he tried to fuck me so…I ditched him. He apparently knew everyone in town and I got free entrance to the old apothecary, Sponza Palace and a couple other attractions that I can’t recall at this time. So atleast he was good for something.

Because I was traveling in the off-season, it’s good to note that 90% of the town was shut down…but I absolutely loved it. No crowds, all unobstructed views, NO ONE at the Jesuit Steps, no one at the rocky shores, I was able to sun tan naked, I was able to do Cersei’s Walk of Shame (nearly) naked!!! Such a dream. I hate crowds and people so it was such a treat that I literally had the whole place to myself! I loved every single minute of it.

And the GoT tour? AMAZING. Such a well-done tour with an even better tour guide! Because it was the off-season, I also ended up getting a private tour basically as I was the only one who signed up. I booked via Airbnb experiences - first time - and it was incredible. My tour guide was so knowledgeable and had these little poster books that referenced each scene and area which the show was filmed. Literally felt like I was on Cloud 9 walking around on set! Super cool and highly recommended if you are a GoT fan!

Know before you go:

Dubrovnik is the most expensive place in Croatia and probably all of Eastern Europe - by far. Think 80 kuna for an orange juice. Average food costs for meals within the Walled City will cost around 150 - 250 kuna, which is honestly “normal” by North American standards but is ungodly by Eastern European standards. I did find this awesome konoba (Croatian tavern that serves a lot of homestyle meals) that offered meals for only 50 kuna apiece and overflowing glasses of wine. There are gems out there - just need to look!
Dubrovnik is seasonal. As mentioned, 90% of the Walled City was closed, even in town as well. Keep this in mind if you’re looking for places to eat on Google. I’d imagine the spring and the summer to be insanely busy but atleast they will be open!

Getting around Dubrovnik:

Walking - You’d best believe I walked around this entire city, hills and all! I couldn’t imagine being in a bus or car - it’s just so beautiful here and the fresh sea air is absolutely enticing. Get your exercise on and walk all throughout on time.
Uber - Okay, I did take an Uber because I wanted to see the view from the top of Fort Imperial. Yeah, I could’’t walked but….nah. A no-shade hike? No thanks. But an Uber ride for 60 kuna? Abso-fucking-lutely worth it - hands down.
Bus - There is public transportation available in Dubrovnik but I never took it. It would’ve only saved me 10 more minutes of walking so I didn’t really see the value in it at all.

What to see in Dubrovnik:

The Walls of Dubrovnik - Hands down, the best attraction of all. Absolutely worth all of the money. It’s a baby climb up and the view from the top are absolutely breathtaking. There is no shade at all at the top so be sure to bring lots of sunscreen. There are garbages along the way in case you decide to bring your lunch up. Do keep your ticket on you as there is another ticket checkpoint half way through on the east side by the new port. Takes about 1 - 1.5 hours to walk around - allow for more time if you really want to chill and take it all in.

Game of Thrones Walking Tour - Well, I did gush all about this above but I can’t stop telling everyone how good the tour was! If you are a GoT fan you will really enjoy this one - don’t pass it up! Great for die-hard fans - I could barely answer all the trivia questions they asked me! Plus, this particular tour had a little baby dragon we were able to take pictures with. SO cute!
Fort Imperial - Want to see some panoramic views of Dubrovnik, Walled City, surrounding islands, mountains of Bosnia and more? Take a hike or drive up to Fort Imperial and take it all in. There is a restaurant up at the time offering gorgeous views too but it was closed when I visited.
Jesuit Stairs - Okay, this is part of the GoT tour but this iconic staircase is a sight to see in and of itself. Of course, if you’re a GoT fan you’d best be doing that walk of shame all the way down.
Fort Lovrijenak - Also known as the Red Keep and also in the GoT tour! This old fortress overlooks the sea and entrances into the Walled City of Dubrovnik. Lots of old artefacts here and is history-laden as it played an important role during the resistance of the Venetian rule in the 11th century.

What to eat in Dubrovnik:

Beef tongue in caper sauce - Y’all know how much I love tongue. So tender and so tasty! This Croatian version was no exception. Super melt-in-your-mouth pieces of beef tongue long-simmered in a savoury caper sauce served with potatoes. Yeah, I had this for breakfast with a giant glass of wine. The server pushed me to have it and how could I say no? Great first meal in Dubrovnik!
Fresh fish - Being right on the Dalmatian Coast you’d be crazy not to have seafood of some sort. The same konoba I visited was having fish special which was caught that morning from the marina/port. I can’t recall the exact name of the fish but it was of a white varietal, very flakey and similar to halibut. Great with a healthy dose of lemon and fresh, green salad. Noms!
Burek - Of course, I had to try the local burek. I had two varietals - cheese and one with spinach and cheese. Delicious! I found the burek in Croatia to be tangier, more sour? The cheese was also almost like a dried cottage cheese - I think that might be the best way to describe. Perfect snack for those long bus rides!
Pasticada - A very traditional Dalmatian dish consisting of beef rump, savoury and sweet sauce and always served alongside gnocchi. This was one of my last meals in Dubrovnik - paired perfectly with a glass of Croatian red!

I had the most food here in Dubrovnik compared to the other Croatian cities I visited. I mean, I did intentionally stay here for two nights! And it was well-worth the stay. I loved wandering up and down the old stairs within the Walled City, taking in the sunset alone just outside of the wall on the rocks, those long walks home… Was it all a dream? Because it sure felt like one. Dubrovnik, I can’t wait to meet you again.

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