SARAJEVO

It all started with a boy. “Do you want to try some Bosnian coffee?”, he said as I was perusing some antiques in the old Bascarsija. “Sure”, I said as I stepped inside this little coffee shop tucked in the outskirts of the old town.

I wasn’t sure what to think of Sarajevo. To be honest, I really had no idea what to expect. I arrived late in the evening after a long bus ride from Dubrovnik over through Mostrar. I had seen all the climates on that ride. I had left blue, sunny skies and 16C weather in January to -4C in Sarajevo. There was snow on the ground and it was a long walk to the hotel. I was exhausted but I just wanted to get to the damn hotel and get a good night’s sleep.

I was relieved when I checked in to the Courtyard by Marriott Sarajevo. The room was uber-spacious with a view looking over the Miljacka River. Situated just a short 10 - 15 minute from the centre of time, it provided a great reprieve from the hustle and bustle of the old town markets and away from the thirsty pickpocketers. During the wintertime, it was also just steps away from a winter garden and outdoor skating rink. Score! Not to mention, it was across the street from Ars Aevi, a contemporary art museum.

Abandoned Olympic Luge Track - 1984 Sarajevo

Although the temperatures were practically freezing, I was still able to enjoy two full days in Sarajevo. The city is so rich with history - you can feel it and you can see it. Remnants of the war are still quite visible here. From bullet holes, to peeling paint and blood-coloured tiles, there lies a conscious reminder of the atrocities that happened within this war torn city.

I wasn’t quite familiar with a lot of the history which is why I decided to take a free walking tour. I think walking tours in new cities are great. They provide you with a brief overview of what the city has to offer, essential history on each city, facts that you may or may not know of and are typically run by students (which I am happy to give my money to). I did do a free 2-hour walking tour first thing in the morning (well, after breakfast, of course) which helped paint a picture of what to expect for Sarajevo. I did a brief walk around the city prior to my tour so I already had grasped my bearings but the explanations for the significance of certain monuments and areas around the city was especially insightful.

My favourite part of the city by far was the Bascarsija. It is the old part of town where, when you are passing through it, would not even realize that you are still in Europe. It has a very Middle Eastern feel to it. There are tons of beautiful antique shops along here, restaurants, Bosnian coffee shops, copper shops and more. Lots of shopping to do here (and to eat!).

Speaking of eating, I loved the food in Sarajevo. Because I was spending a considerable amount of time in former Yugoslavia, it is natural for there to be much similarities in food across the nations. But I must say…the food in Sarajevo was hands-down the best. The best burek, the best coffee, the best stews and soups, and some of the greatest hospitality I had experienced on my trip. I was able to try so much because of one special connection I had made there which really made my trip super memorable.

I will warn you about two things: the air pollution and pickpocketers. Because of Sarajevo’s geographic location, it is privy to some of the world’s worst air quality. Sarajevo sits nestled at the basin of a mountainous area which traps the smog and bad air - visible from high above atop Trebevic Mountain (also comes highly recommended, especially to see the abandoned 1984 Olympics bobsleigh and luge track).

As for pickpocketers, I’ve only ever been targeted and attempted on in former Yugoslavia - once in Serbia and now here, in Bosnia. There are many signs (almost laughable) warning tourists of pickpocketers. I was almost pickpocketed right on the main street during the early evening. Be careful if you are wearing a backpack and be aware of your surroundings. I caught them (as with the ones in Serbia) and even if I didn’t, they would’ve been disappointed with the 10 BAM I had in my wallet!

Know before you go:

The currency in Sarajevo is the Bosninan mark (BAM). It is a closed currency so make sure you buy enough and use it all before you go. Otherwise, it’s pretty useless!
Pickpocketers are abundant here. Just be aware of your surroundings, especially if people are tailgating you. Luckily, I love my personal space and hate it when people tailgate so that was a quick red flag for me. Be vigilant!

Getting around Sarajevo:

Walking - Guys, I literally walked everywhere. The town of Sarajevo is not very big at all and can be easily done 100% on foot. Brace yourself for the cold if traveling in the wintertime. Don’t worry - there are tons of restaurants to duck into if you’re freezing and need to de-thaw!
Bus - Traveling to Sarajevo I took a bus from Dubvronik. The main bus station is about a 30 minute walk away from the town, or a short taxi ride which is actually pretty affordable.
Taxi - I only took a taxi once as I realized my bus was leaving from the far off bus station in order to go to get to Podgorica, Montenegro. Taxi fare was extremely cheap and reasonable. They accept BAM or Euros.

What to see in Sarajevo:

Bascarsija - The old market place - when east meets west! A bustling marketplace where is the place you would want to get your souvenirs. You can find anything from old-school pepper mills, copper goods, tea cups and tea pots, and more. Do check out Index for Bosnian coffee - a true experience - and the antique stores down the same street. Absolutely incredible - feels like you are being transported out of Europe!
Trebevic Mountain - Take the cable car up to the top of Trebevic Mountain and take in the views. I couldn’t see the city of Sarajevo below due to the smog but the thunderous mountains and clear blue skies (and fresh air) were a real treat.
Abandoned 1984 Olympics Bobseligh and Luge Track - Once you’re up high on the Trebevic, walk down and check out the abandoned luge track. Reminiscent of the pre-war days in Bosnia and the glory that Sarajevo used to have, it’s a must visit. The track, now completely covered by graffiti, is a work of art in and of itself. You can even walk down the entire mountain via the luge tracks as well if you’re in for a trek!
War Child Museum - Now, there are SO many museums in Sarajevo. Lots of them dedicated to genocide, the Siege of Sarajevo and more. Since the museum I wanted to initially go to was closed, I decided to check out the War Child Museum - absolutely fascinating. A contemporary museum featuring artifacts and memorabilia from the Siege of Sarajevo and a small, select few other worldly sites that were destroyed by war like Syria. Really interesting way of capturing the memories and nightmares during those dark times.
Monuments - There are a number of prominent monuments around the city that are must-sees but you don’t have to spend much time at. Vjecna Vatra, or the eternal flame, is a commemorative monument dedicated to those who liberated World War II. It’s always lit and a great way to warm up your hands during those bitterly cold days in Bosnia!

What to eat in Sarajevo:

Burek - I don’t care if you’ve tried burek before. Maybe you’ve tried in Serbia, Croatia and surrounding Eastern European countries. I have literally tried them ALL. But Bosnia has the BEST burek I have ever had in my life. When your Serbian friends urge you to have burek in Bosnia, you’ve got to have it. It actually wasn’t on my list until my last few hours in Bosnia and the guy I was with got me some fresh burek from Buregdzinca Bosna. It will literally melt in your mouth.
Bosnian coffee - The best Bosnian coffee, hands down, can be found at a small, cozy shop at the edge of the Bascarsija called Index. This is the coffee shop I was beckoned to and I went there a couple times on my trip. Bosnian is strong and is very different than Turkish coffee. Coffee beans are ground up into a fine powder and hot water is poured over top of it. It’s then served with a side of hot water and sugar if you need to cut down on the bitterness. Perfection.
Skembe corba - This simple soup was one of my favourite dishes that I had in Sarajevo. Perhaps 1) it was freezing cold in Sarajevo and 2) it reminded me of food I’ve had in my childhood. Loved the version that they had at Dzenita. Not only was it super cheap, it was so comforting - tripe, broth, rice, chili oil, garlic and a little vinegar. Yum!
Klepe - “Bosnian ravioli”? A lot of bloggers have been comparing these small Bosnian dumplings to ravioli. I actually think they are more comparable to that of a wonton. They are filled with ground beef, sour cream, paprika and hot chili oil. I loved this.
Cevapcici - Along with the best burek, Bosnia also has the best cevap as well! You must go to Cevabdzinica Zeljo for this dangerous “little meat finger” (literal translation!). Make sure you get this with kajmak (similar to clotted cream) and lots of raw onions. Yummmmmm.
Rose petal juice - How luxurious! This rose-hued and flavoured juice is made with fresh rose petals, water and sugar. I had seen this on the menu at Nanina Kuhinja and although it was freezing out, it was so refreshing and delicious.
Cedar juice - No, the doesn’t taste like bark. Cedar tastes very close to fresh mint. It’s prepared similarly to the rose juice with water and sugar. Another refreshing juice to wash all that burek down!
Dolma - Stuffed vegetables. Whether it’s zucchini, peppers, onions, tomatoes or cabbage, this will definitely hit the spot. It’s usually served as an appetizer but hey, when it’s cold out, it works just as well as a main!

Sarajevo was such a pleasant surprise. The food, the people, the history - it was so enriching. The connections I felt with the people here made me feel so welcomed. Perhaps I’ll come back one day. The summers here must be incredible.

I didn’t mention it much but one thing that made Bosnia so memorable was that I was swept away by a Bosnian local. He showed me so much around the city, introduced me to a lot of the food and drink and convinced me to meet him late at night (things I NEVER do when traveling alone in a foreign country!). But I’m glad I took the risk. We had a nice connection. Perhaps one day we’ll be reunited again.

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