BUDAPEST

What can I say? I had high hopes for Budapest and it definitely exceeded expectations! A beautiful city with an edge. Artful graffiti, ruin pubs, enticingly-rich comfort food, cheap drinks (and everything!) — all with a classic European flair. I loved Budapest and was genuinely sad to leave the place. I missed a couple places but had an insanely packed schedule where I walked the entire city and had the best time. From the castle to the churches to parliament to the thermal baths, I had a blast. Despite my packed itinerary, I really started to slow it down. I know it took me five days but I’m finally starting to feel European.

I had made a new friend before I had left for my trip while working a ton of banquets shift at the hotel I worked at who literally just moved to Vancouver a few months ago. She gave me all of the tips, the must-sees, and was very proud of her city. I hope that this blog post does her well - thank you Anita from My Endless Bucket List for providing me with all the best recos to represent your gorgeous city!

As for my stay, I stayed the stunning New York Palace Hotel, by Dedica Anthology. I’ve stayed at Dedica Anthology (formerly Boscolo) hotels in the past in both Rome and NIce and my perspective is that they claim to be 5 stars, but really I would say that they are a nice 4 star. Little details such dirty dishes not being taken away, to little touches perhaps being non-existent and having stayed and rated many, many proper 5 star hotels, makes this one seem a little lacklustre. There is a lot of history at the hotel and their cafe is very famous. The interiors are beautiful but the rooms can use a lot of work.

I was lucky enough (or unlucky?) to stay in the historic wing of the hotel. White marble floors, gold details, good-sized bottles of Acqua di Parma amenities, and pastries in-room upon check-in catered from the iconic New York Palace Cafe, were nice touches. But flooding sinks, no bath salts for the bath tub, and not being addressed by name took away from the experience. I think to the average travel this would be a great hotel but I’m anal when it comes to hotels, especially luxury, because of the nature of the industry I used to work in. I guess you can say I was spoiled? Ha.

The location, however, I think was excellent. Very centrally-located and not directly in the tourist drag. The hotel sits at a perfect 20 - 30 minute walk to many attractions in Budapest. I literally walked EVERYWHERE. I never took the metro once until I had to leave to go to Kelenfold to catch my train to Vienna.

As for attractions, there is lots to do and see in this city. Unfortunately, as luck may have it traveling on Christmas and Boxing Day (which I now know is only a Canadian thing!) means that everything is closed. Everything. Vaci Utca, Christmas Markets, hotels, and very select restaurants and cafes were open but it was very much a struggle to find something open! Because of that, I never got a chance to visit any ruin pubs but all good since I’m not a huge partier anyways and it gives me another reason to come back and re-visit the city. I cannot wait to come back.

Know before you go:

The currency in Hungary is the Hungarian frint (HUF). It is extremely cheap and your money will certainly take you a long way. I was blowing my money but the second day but could easily have spent only $50 a day. I had money left over and went to some nicer areas (and unfortunately, got caught in some “expensive” tourist places too). But it is very cheap! I would say on average, meals will cost anywhere between 1000 - 2000 HUF which roughly converts to $5 - $10 CAD. And they’re large and heavy so you’ve been warned!
Traveling around Christmas? As I said previously, the town will largely be closed. This also accounts for December 26th which is the second day of Christmas. As I’ve been told, December 24th is also closed as well as it is the most important day of the holidays.
Metro/bus/tram tickets are per trip. if you require a transfer, that will be at an additional cost. Keep this in mind if you intend on transferring!

Getting around Budapest:

Walking - I walked EVERYWHERE in this city. EVERYWHERE. Mind you, I can walk all day and never get tired of it or be exhausted. Because I was centrally-located, it was really easy for me to walk anywhere. For attractions that would take 10 minutes less than me walking, I’d rather just use my own two feet. Easy peasy.
Metro - I only used this once on the way to Kelenfold to catch my train but the metro line was so easy and efficient to use. I can only speak for the M4 line which is the newest line, having been completed earlier this year. It costs 350 HUF to purchase your ticket at the yellow machines.
Bus - I did take one of the busses when I arrived at the bus station via Bratislava. Very easy to use and buses come on time and frequently. Keep in mind that if you purchase a ticket directly on the bus, it will be 450 HUF and no change is given so be sure to give exact change. If you happen to buy your ticket at a newsstand or ticket booth, it will be 350 HUF.
Tram - There are lots of trams to hop on and off in Budapest. I never used any but it’s a great way to get across town and over to and from Buda and Pest. I never took this personally but in case you can’t walk, this would be a great form of transportation. It is 350 HUF per trip.
Lime - Scoot around! These electric scooters aren’t a new thing but they are all over Europe and a great way of getting around. Just download the app and plop on! Just be sure to park in designated areas.
Bolt - This is a taxi-hailing app you can use to easily track down taxis if that is the method of transportation you prefer. Never used it but I kept seeing it around!

What to see/do in Budapest:

Buda Castle - You can see this gorgeous castle sitting across the Danube River overlooking Pest. It is on the Buda side and is free to visit. The castle grounds are vast and is fun to explore around in. There are a few art exhibitions within the castle walls which require additional admission. The view is outstanding from the top and there are a few cafes nestled inside as well in case you become hungry. I do like the Castle Garden Bazaar at the bottom of the hill - I would imagine this is beautiful in the summertime.
Citadella - If thought the castle was high, this is even higher. Prepare your quads as this is a mini trek! If you want a breathtaking panoramic view of Budapest, please go here. There is also a little cafe at the top too in case you want a celebratory beer. I entered from the Castle side and ended at the bottom of Gellert Hill, conveniently where the Gellert Baths are located.
Hungarian baths - There are a few iconic baths that Hungary is most known for and it’s an absolute must-do! Yes, it’s touristy but I’m obsessed with bathhouses and go to them often around the world. I went and visited Schezenyi Baths located in the City Park. It is the largest bathhouse in Budapest, housing a whopping 15 pools with varying degrees in temperature. Cold to hot to outdoor to their famous beer spa, I had a great time. And for having crazy eczema outbreaks recently, this did wonders for my skin! PS. There was much too many people here so if you’re a germaphobe, you’ll probably hate it, ha.
Schezenyi Bridge - Two Chains Bridge. No, not the rapper. The beautiful bridge that connects Buda and Pest. The architecture is gorgeous on this bridge and pedestrians may cross it but be warned that it is busy!
City Park Ice Skating Rink - The world’s largest outdoor ice skating rink? Apparently, it is! I was looking for a festive activity to do on Christmas Day and this was open, yay! SO much fun. I used to ice skate often as a child so this brought back so many nostalgic memories. It is 2500 HUF for an adult entry ticket and another 2000 for the ice skate rental. The latter is a deposit and it is returned to you at the end. There are lockers available (with a price I believe; it was full when I got there) and a free coat check which sufficed. There is also a restaurant on-site and if you visit around Christmas, there is also there is a mini Christmas market just outside towards the baths.
Central Market Hall - I literally woke up early to see this an hour before I had to catch my train to Vienna. The market has some long hours (opens at 6:00am!) so it is an an accessible attractions even fi you have an early departure. This two-floored market houses fresh produce, Hungarian meats and cheeses, spices, some souvenirs and the second floor is dedicated to eateries and some other select vendors. I arrived just before 8:00am and the market was half open. It was a really cool experience to see the market “waking up”.
Hungarian Parliament - Want to see incredible architecture? Then the Parliament building is a must. Gorgeous Neo-classical architecture which sits just by the Danube River, across from Fisherman’s Bastion. You can take tours but, of course, it was closed during the dates I was there. Be sure to buy your tickets at least a day or two in advanced as tours are limited.
Fisherman’s Bastion - A barracks on top of a hill overlooking Pest? Yes, please. Lots of excellent photo opportunities here. It is very busy with tourists but the walk here is beautiful.
St. Martin’s Cathedral - This is also located at Fisherman’s Bastion. Another church, but hey, two birds with one stone, right?
Vati Utca - Nice to pass through but I’d avoid this street like the plague. Tourist central. Houses a very large Christmas Market which was the only thing open when we went but good god, I’m sorry but the food was awful here. I really don’t know how long this food was sitting out but but it was not good. And it was expensive. Food here is literally double the price of any regular Hungarian restaurant. Salty too, bleh! There is lots of shopping here but nothing you couldn’t find elsewhere in Europe.

What to eat in Budapest:

Goulash - A Hungarian staple! You’ll find different variations across Central Europe. Tender pieces of beef, carrots, potatoes and peppers in a Hungarian paprika-laden sauce. Classic. I loved having these with Hungarian dumplings.
Cabbage rolls - Large and in charge. Cabbage roll stuffed with rice and meat. This brings back memories! You can find this on any menu in the city. Unfortunately, it was v very salty. Looked good on the outside though!
Krampali - Mulled wine….but with palanka - read both below! Very Christmassy and I would say slightly sweeter than traditional mulled wine. But oh-so-good… Christmas in a cup.
Hungarian wines - As you know, I’m a wine lover! I was able to sample a number of wines - white, rose and reds. Be sure to get some wines from the Tokaj region - great wines are produced in that wine region. I especially loved their Cabernet Sauvignon - very rich and goes well with goulash and rich and hearty stews!
Mulled wine - It isn’t Christmas without mulled wine. At this point, 3 cities into my European journey, I’ve had mulled wine like everyday and I ain’t mad about it!
Strawberry wine - I also tried hot strawberry wine! DELICIOUS. This was the first booth I spotted that was open and I darted it straight for the alcohol. No regrets. This was hella tasty and helped warm me up during those chilly Budapest winters!
Palanka - The spirit of Hungary. Very similar to other Central and Eastern European spirits like slivovic and rakia, this clear spirit hovers around 46% alcohol and is made out of various fruits like plum, sour cherry raspberry and more. It’s strong - especially as you begin to drink it - with a sweet finish.
Coffee - Coffee culture is great here! So many cute little shops, albeit none were open! I was lucky enough to stumble upon Cups & Mugs which was rather close to my hotel. Sure, it’s pricey but it was one of the best cortados I’ve had in my life! Bonus points: they have a good range of alternative milks including oat milk. Also, if you are AirBnBing, they offer luggage storage starting a 1 - 2 euros depending on the size and hours you’re needing it for.
Sheep’s cheese - Just so good. So many different styles here. I personally loved fried cheese because, I mean….who doesn’t love fried cheese!?
Sausage - Lots of varieties of Hungarian meats and sausages here. I found them to be a lot leaner and less fatty than other parts of Europe or perhaps those were the only ones I had tried. They were delicious.
Rooster testicle stew - Okay, it’s touristy but I had to try it! But yes, you read that right. Balls. Rooster balls. Don’t be mistaken - these are not large lima beans! They are indeed, testicles. Soft in texture with a lingering aftertaste. The sauce was tomato, pepper and pork-based, which was delicious - goes great with a piece of bread. Not sure if I would have this again…

Again, I am sad to leave Budapest. I’m currently writing this post as I leave the city onwards towards Vienna. I probably missed a few things but I’m really proud of how much ground I covered. Budapest is a city that I definitely would love to visit one day in the future.

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