ZURICH

Wow, I fell in love with this city SO FAST. Sure, it may be one of the most expensive places in the world to visit but I absolutely loved every minute of it. Within seconds of arriving, I just had this “coming home” feeling; it was weird! But it was such a good sign. I would suppose that it provided a bit of foreshadowing…

I was coming into the city via Munich on an early bus. I couldn’t do a direct route from Vienna - it had to be an overnight bus to Munich and from there transfer to another bus to Zurich. The bus was supposed to arrive at 6:20 but for some reason, it arrived an entire HOUR early. Yes, I arrived at 5:22am. I’ve heard of busses being delayed or late but never early and especially not this early. I was really surprised and abruptly woken up, not to mention it was fucking freezing outside. Luckily, I was just in Munich a couple months prior and was familiar with the area. Haubahnhof was a quick 15 minute walk from the bus station so I was able to find shelter, pick up some breakfast, stay warm and kill some time. The next bus was just under 4 hours which I slept right through and when I woke up my eyes, I was in Zurich.

Zurich is a small city with a lot of character. It is easily walkable and its transportation is super easy to use. I hopped onto the tram from Zurich Main Station and I was at my hotel in under 20 minutes. I checked into the Four Points by Sheraton Sihlcity which is by the cute neighbourhood of Enge. It is a. 25 minute walk into the old part of town which passes through many little vintage shops and cafes - super cute!

The hotel itself was great! Usually the Four Points brand is really low end so it was to my surprise how modern this particular location was. Dark interiors, hard wood floors, in-room Nespresso machine, plush robes - what a treat!! And with my associate rate, it was such a steal! For the price I paid over New Year’s weekend - it was less than the spending money I brought - score!

That being said, they don’t fuck around in Switzerland. Its reputation for being a world class, expensive city is true - it really lives up to its name. The prices can be a little bit steep or a sticker shock but there are a couple travel hacks which you can read down below.

As for the city itself, it’s great! The perfect balance of hipster, trendy and cool. There are a lot of cool converted warehouses and industrial buildings that have changed into restaurants, bars, and theatres. The look, the feel, the fashion - it’s incredible. I feel like I could live here. It’s a vibe that I felt immediately. Who knows, maybe one day!

Know before you go:

The currency in Switzerland is the Swiss franc (CHF). Expect the exchange to be somewhat similar to the euro….so, not cheap. However, almost everywhere in the city takes card which makes it incredibly convenient which is what I did halfway throughout my trip after blowing through my cash pretty fast (actually, money went missing from where I kept my money, like 120 CHF which I was annoyed about but oh well).
Like Germany and Austria, expect most stores and restaurants to be closed on Sundays. The only place that is consistently open would be around Zurich Main Station and some select places in the Old Town.

Getting around Zurich:

Tram - I think the best and most efficient way of getting around the city would be by tram. The best bang for your buck would be to take advantage of the 24-hour ticket. You can hop on and off of all the trams that go in the city. Super convenient at a great price - only 8,80 CHF! A great price since a full single ticket ride is 4,40 CHF.
Walking - As I said, I literally walked EVERYWHERE. I walked from the hotel in Enge all the way to the old city, over and up to Industriequartier crossing over into Unterstrass and Muhlebach. Bring a great pair of walking shoes and keep your eyes open - so many great art pieces, graffiti, and people watching to be had in this city.
Train - Planning a day trip somewhere? Zurich Hauptbahnof is a major hub for departures to literally…everywhere. I ended up taking a day trip to Liechtenstein this way. I found the prices to be a little steep, especially considering the currency conversion but hey, it’s a pretty efficient way to get around! Mind you, the WiFi on-board absolutely sucks.

Things to see in Zurich:

Banhofstrasse - Dubbed the “most expensive street in the world” - and I believe it! Lots of high end shopping may be found here. I’m not into shopping but I do appreciate the stroll. Its a really nice street and there are some (affordable) stores and Swiss chocolate shops there as well.
Old Town - Weaving in and out of the cobblestone streets of the Old Town in Zurich is always an enjoyable stroll. There are lots of little boutiques to wander in as well as eateries. Plus, eyeing all of the old buildings and shutters is always a real treat.
Im Viadukt - The Swiss version of NYC’s High Line? I quite think so. An old rail way line hid underneath Zurich’s current rail line housing many eclectic shops and stores. This was one of my favourite parts when visiting Zurich. It’s a little bit of a walk north of Zurich’s Main Station but totally worth it. Be sure to check out the Markethalle at ground level while you’re there.
Frau Gerolds Garten - Possibly the most Intagrammble place in Zurich? Yes. I thought this was prettier and cooler than the Grounds of Alexandria in Sydney - and that is saying something. Cool bars, hipster millennial photo-worthy spots, fairy lights, open-air concept - it’s literally everything I love. The area is industrial-chic and a favourite of mine.
Waterfront - I did a lot of walking along the riverside and loved the stroll. In fact, I enjoy any type of seawall activity - it really reminds me of home in Vancouver. I found some really cool places just walking along with no real destination.
Lake Zurich - A beautiful, large basin of water where Burliplatz sits and where you can (in the summer) embark onto boat rides and explore beyond. It was Chrismastime/New Year’s when I visited. The sky was lit with fireworks at 12:20am (odd time) and the streets were packed with people. Still a good place to walk on a non-crowded day.
Enge - My hotel was right by the little neighbourhood of Enge. If you like vintage shopping and quirky, more local stores, you’ll enjoy this area. We walked through this on the first day to get to the old town - not a far walk from here or just a couple stops on the #13 tram.
Industriequartier - This is where Im Viadukt starts/ends. Totally industrial pace filled with cool shops, restaurants and more. This is the heart of West Zurich - a great place to escape the tourist drag and see some real local people.
Markethalle - Food hall dreams come true. Except when they’re closed on NYE. Haha, that being said, it’s usually open most of the time! Go here for your hipster food fix.

What to eat in Zurich:

Yes, eating out can be pretty pricey and if you’re looking for those quintessential Swiss dishes like fondue and raclette, expect to pay up! It’s always priced per person even if the portion is larger than you might eat so keep that in mind. My aunt took me around the city and a lot of locals eat at department stores like Migros, Globus, and Manor (the top floor of each department store houses restaurants which are super cheap!).

Zürcher Geschnetzeltes - Yum! First meal in Zurich and it was a heavy one! Tender pieces of veal in a mushroom cream sauce and traditionally served with a potato rosti. Yes. Do it. It’s not for the faint of heart. I was able to sneak into the busy Zeughauskeller for this and sat at a communal table - it was a popular dish.
Swiss cheese fondue - Well, this is a must. There are SO many different kinds of fondues - I had no idea! Most touristic places will have this and no, you cannot share as it is priced per person. It’s a lot though - about 200g per person which is really insane. Each comes with complimentary bread and you can add on potatoes, meats, pearl onions, pickles and more. I had a four cheese version with white wine and cherry liqueur.
Raclette - What can I say? Melted cheese on top of boiled potatoes? Yes, please. I mean there are a couple different forms of raclette (can also get this atop bread but always served with pearl onions and pickles). Unfortunately, I couldn’t find the kind where they go from table to table with a large piece of cheese and slide it off table side. Next time!
Belegte brötli and lachsbrötli - You might not be able to pronounce this but you’ll see this cute little open-faced sandwiches in department store restaurants, grocery stores and the markets. The topping is often molded so perfectly and held together with an aspic glaze made out of meat juices/broth. Sounds odd but think of it as an apricot glaze finish on cakes which makes it look glossy and shiny. It also acts as a preservative. I tried a variety of them topped with smoked salmon, prawns, eggs and salami. Mm!
Schnitzel - Austria neighbours Switzerland so its natural to see a lot of similarity and crossover with the menus. I had chicken schnitzel here and it was tender, juicy and less crunchy than the Viennese version. Still super tasty and hit the spot!
Chocolate - Another obvious one. I’ve eaten a lot of chocolate in my lifetime and Swiss chocolate is by far the BEST. Laderach was my favourite, FAVOURITE one that I had tried on my trip. Yes, it’s pricey but well worth it if you’re a chocolate lover like myself! The Lindt factory is also a quick train ride away which I didn't get to visit on this trip but you can buy a lot of limited edition chocolates at any grocery or department store.
Drinks - Zurich has a lot of sexy looking bars…and also some quirky and cool ones too. Schiffbau, an old building that once used to house large ships, is now converted into a bar and cinematheque. Hello beautiful high ceilings! I also stumbled up on Park Platz which was a cozy hangout spot located just by the riverside. A cool assortment of cocktails but the wine is also very good as well.

Maybe it doesn’t sound like I did a lot but that’s the charm. I really felt like I was hanging out here. That’s what I loved about Zurich so much - it really felt like home. Freezing cold, yes, but a homey feel for sure. I definitely need to return here and to other Swiss cities in the near future.

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