BOLOGNA

Finally, I have visited an Italian city I am completely enamoured with. Forget the larger cities like Rome, Florence and Milan and even the lakeside cities surrounding Lago di Como. If you find yourself in Milan or Venice, just a mere 1.5 hour train ride is Bologna and indeed, it is my favourite city so in Italy and so far, on my entire Europe trip.

I’m currently two weeks into my trip starting in Central Europe in Prague and now literally at the halfway point in my trip. I had planned for five days in Italy - two days in Lago di Como, one in Milan, one in Bologna and one in Venice. I had actually planned on staying north and stopping in Brescia but upon my research discovered that another option would be to stop in Bologna. The towns of Parma and Gorgonzola are also quick day trips from Bologna but I knew I wouldn’t have enough time. I didn’t know what Bologna had to offer but I knew that there was a Marriott hotel there so I just booked it and thought I would spend my time writing in a coffeeshop.

Boy, was I surprised! I stayed t the AC Hotel Bologna which is a 12-minute walk from the Bologna Centrale Stazione. It is not located in the city centre; rather, it is on the other side of the railroad tracks in a more residential area. I’m always happy enough to stay away from the city centre because 1) I can squeeze a lot more steps in and 2) they’re typically in non-touristy areas forcing me to explore more. It was a great choice. The hotel itself isn’t anything to write home about ease and convenience location-wise, it turned out to be perfect for my needs.

The town of Bologna itself is stunning. It is was actually everything I was looking for: a number of monumental structures, arches in every street, plastered with graffiti, street art, exceptional eats, tiled and cobbled streets, wonderful markets, high score on walkability and great price points. Food, on average, ranges from 7 - 9 euros in general, higher if you go for a proper sit-down meal. Bologna scored high in my books. I could literally wander and spend hours here getting lost - which is what I did - and was so pleasantly surprised. It’s the way that I prefer to travel. and it was just perfect.

It’s so crazy. My favourite cities in the world are Lisbon, Porto, Malta (as a whole), and the French Riviera (as a whole but Antibes and Aix-en-Provence are amongst my favourites), and I remember the feeling that I felt walking along those streets. I get a butterfly feeling in my stomach and it feels like being in love. I felt that here. It felt like bliss. A romantic feeling, a passionate feeling, true wanderlust. As soon as I stepped foot into town after crossing those tracks, I felt that feeling that was so reminiscent of how I felt in my favourite cities. Bologna is definitely up there now. So let’s get into it.

Getting around Bologna:

Walking - If you read this blog religiously, you’ll know that I literally walk everywhere. EVERYWHERE. Bologna is no exception. If you’re in the city centre, you really do not have any excuse. The city is rather small so you really can walk around everywhere at ease. The city is also flat as hell so bonus!
Train - I’d imagine you’d be coming in from another city, no? Trains are accessible and getting around Italy is very convenient and efficient. It’s just 1.5 hours to Milan and Venice.

What to see in Bologna:

Two Towers - Did you know that there is another leaning tower in Italy? That’s right - you don’t have to go to Pisa to see a leaning tower, there is one right here in Bologna and it’s right in the centre of town.
Finestrella - Like Venice, Bologna used to be a city based on its canal systems. However, as the town was built and the economy grew, the canals were covered or built over and you aren’t able to see them anymore except for this one little window. Finestrella is a tiny window (you will probably walk right passed it) which peers into what the city looked like in its medieval times). I visited at night time and there was no line at all, despite the reviews I’ve read. Totally worth seeing!
Piazza Maggiore - This is the main square in the city. Not a whole lot going on here but it’s good to have a seat with your takeaway food and take in the city and people watch.
Fountain of Neptune - Beautiful structure just steps away from Piazza Maggiore. I visited around Christmastime and there was a huge Christmas tree erected which was lovely at night time.
Mercato di Mezzo - Ooh, my favourite market. This is more like a food hall. Tons of stalls here serving up fresh pasta, loaded focaccia bread, wine, spritzes, mortadella, and more. SO good. It is insanely busy so there may no be a ton of seats.
Mercato della Erbe - This is more of a traditional produce market selling fresh vegetables and fruit. The market is located in the centre of the building with a number of small eateries along the periphery.
Domenico Mercato - Not sure if this only happens on Saturdays as this was the day I was there (and I also can’t find ANY information on this market at all) but there is a huge market that takes place in the Piazza dell Otto Agosto. It is a sprawling flea market that extends up to the Parco della Montagnola. You can find anything from clothes to cosmetics to Sengalese jewelry to vintage fur and homewares. Prices were insanely cheap there - starting from 1 euro! I only had purchased some Clinique foundation for 3 euros (because if you didn’t know, Sephora in Italy is completely different and carries different products than America) and didn't have anymore room for any thing else. Really fun to walk around in. It is super busy here with a lot of POC. Very interesting.
Parco della Montagnola - Need a city break? Just steps away from the tourist area, the park makes for a quick little stroll or a cute spot to eat some takeaway. It’s also a good short cut to get to the train station and major bus routes!
Il Partello - Probably my favourite street in the entire city. By day, there is a ton of street art on the doors. But by night, the shutters open and you’ll find restaurants and bars open all along the street. Such a fun vibe here and energy.
Scallinata del Pincio - Need to get out of the tourist drab? Cut through Parco della Montagnola and take some photos along this huge sprawling staircase. It’s a little bit at a higher vantage point so you can take a peak at the real non-touristy part of Bologna.

What to eat in Bologna:

Tortelloni - Bologna is known for their stuffed pastas. Get in tossed in ragu, in brodo (in broth), tossed in butter, in a cheese cream sauce… So good. There are various filing here - mostly filled with cheese, pumpkin or a mixture of some meats. I had mine at Pasta Fresca Naldi prepared zucca burro salvia which is stuffed with pumpkin, sage and tossed in a butter sauce. Yes, it’s as heavenly as you would expect. There’s hardly any seating area but fresh-made pasta at 8 euros? Yes, please.
Bolognese - I just had to have bolognese when in Bologna! I had fresh tagliatelle ragu at the Mercato di Mezzo. I queued up at the first pasta stall on the left as you walk in - I believe it was called Di Gusto - and had fresh egg tagliatelle with ragu. Huge portion alert for a mere 7,50 euros! Perfectly al dente pasta, savoury ragu. Hey, gotta have bolognese in Bologna! The lasagna also looked VERY good and it was their special of the day and is made properly and traditionally with a spinach pasta base!
Piadina - Yuuuuummmmm. Like a crossover between a calzone, quesadilla and panino. Leftover pizza dough stuffed with a variety of ingredients and sealed shut and pressed in a panini press. Makes for a nice late-night or drunken bite or, in my case, a great breakfast!
Mortadella.- It’s an Italian pork-based ham that originated in Bologna and I guess to most North Americans, known as “bologna’. I had mine in a piadina (see above!) and it was delicious.
Aperitivo - It is Italy, of course. Many restaurants close from 3 - 6 pm so if you are hungry for a snack, go for aperitivo! Wine or spritz with small bites. Like the North American version of happy hour.

So in love with this city. Thank you Bologna for showing me why North Americans go crazy for this country!

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