SPLIT

Now here’s a destination where I could’ve used an extra night.

I arrived in Split after a very early morning bus ride from Zagreb. I took the first bus out and woke up winding along the Dalmatian Coast. The sun had woken me right up as I could see it peering through some of the mountains that were along the coastline. It was so beautiful. It didn’t even look like I was in Europe?!

The bus station is conveniently right by the train station and port, where they also drop ferries off and whatnot. In a split (haha, get it?) decision, I decided to start sightseeing ASAP instead of dropping off things at my hotel first. Because it was such a hub for all modes of transportation, there were lockers available right by the bus station where I was able to store my luggage and bags. I chose the ones in the bus station that were navy blue and just required a few coins that provided me more than enough time for a few hours of wandering.

As soon as I started walking to town, I saw the palm trees and thought “Wow, am I in LA?”. The weather was fantastic too - a cool 15C but with the sun shining down upon me, it felt even warmer. I couldn’t have been happier. I made my way to town and started my exploration.

Because I arrived later in the afternoon, the local market was just wrapping up. Honestly, it looked like I didn’t miss much. Some clothes, sunglasses, produce, touristy garb. Not my thing. I skipped along and started exploring the ruins, gates, and more. Split is such a tiny coastal town. It was easy to explore given the short amount of daylight I had. And even with golden hour approaching, I wasn’t even the least bit worried. No FOMO here. My only worry was getting to the top of the bell tower in time to catch those golden rays. It provided the best view in the entire city… Just breathtaking. Not to mention that the climb up was recommended as an “at your own risk” adventure but it was a risk I gladly took - completely worth it!

Of course, I can’t visit the town without having some local food, right? I only had the pleasure of having one real meal in Split and honestly, it was one of the best things I consumed during my time in Croatia. I visited Villa Spiza near the edge of the old town. It came with hundreds of great reviews a la Google but when I went, I was the only one there! Score. I had the Adriatic squid which came highly recommended by my friend based in Zagreb. “You have to try the Adriatic squid - it’s giant”. Giant? They were HUGE. Picture reference below. As big as a proper steak. These babies were grilled to perfection and served with blitza, a salad made of mashed potatoes and chard. Don’t forget some Croatian white wine to down it all…Yum.

My hotel, the Le Meridien Lav, Split was a huge. It was far from town (actually in Lav - the next town over!) but it was a resort with beautiful beachfront views. Because I arrived so damn late, the sun was down already and even though I got upgraded to a beachfront room, I could only see the moon faintly reflecting onto the water. Sigh. I did get to enjoy their spacious rooms, hot towel racks, and large indoor pool and hot tub (although I almost forgot I was in Europe and my hot tubbin’ time was interrupted by a naked European man who decided to join me). Ha.

Getting around Split:

Walking - Split is a small city so it makes sense to explore the town on foot. There are some small hills out of the old town but I’d imagine most people spending their time right in the old town by the port and marina. Very easily accessible and to walk in.
Bus - I took a bus out to Lav to my hotel. It took a lot longer than I thought but the attendants were very eager to help me and guide me in the right direction. Fare was relatively cheap as well although I can’t remember now at the top of my head. Cheap and cheerful!
Uber - Yes, they have Uber here! I took this as an option when I had an early morning bus ride booked from Split to Dubrovnik. Not much to say here except that the driver was super talkative, offered great service and was quick as hell! A great option if you want to bypass the public transportation option.

What to see in Split:

Riva - You’ve got to check out the beautiful, palm tree-lined promenade right by the water. There are tons of cafes along here that face directly into the sea. There are lots of sun loungers, chairs and a pathway if you prefer to be in your own company and take in the sun that way. It’s a gorgeous, albeit short, stroll.
Diocletian’s Palace - Croatian ruins of a former palace during the Roman rule. It’s amazing to see so many structures here so delicately preserved. It’s like as if you were taking a step back in time. I loved wandering through the palace grounds - it is large! There are hotels and restaurants that have moved into the palace spaces - be sure to be curious and explore! Lots of cool, little nooks and crannies here to take photos.
Saint Domnius Bell Tower - As stated, the best views of Split are from high above. I climbed the bell tower “at my own risk” (literally looked like it was still under construction) where I was able to fully enjoy the views of Split all by myself. Joys of traveling in the off season, eh? Panoramic views which show off the beautiful orange-hued city. Gorgeous to come here around sunset or during the golden hour. Simply gorgeous.
Resorts - Split is a resort town for both locals and foreigners. Stay at a ritzy hotel, go to the beach, take advantage of all the amenities, and soak in the views. Split is a place for relaxation and solitude. Enjoy it.

What to eat in Split:

Adriatic squid - I literally only had (in real daylight) a few hours in Split, hence the one meal! Of course, being by the sea I had to get seafood of some sort and it was recommended to me that giant Adriatic squid was the way to go. Best meal in Croatia. So tender, fresh and delicious. I am dying to have this again.
Croatian wine - I can’t remember all of the grape varietals but I had tried a Croatian wine grape that was similar to a chardonnay. Hey, it was beautiful sunny day in January! I couldn’t say no to a crisp, white wine! It totally hit the spit. Went excellently with my meal. Perfection.

Kind of hitting myself for this but I wish I could have spent another day in Split - atleast another half day. I loved the Dalmatian Coast so much that I know I will be back one day. Just so stunning. These memories will be emblazoned in my mind forever. Until next time…

GET IN TOUCH