ZAGREB

When I was planning my trip to Europe, Croatia was high on my list. Maybe I’m a little biased but it’s because a lot of Season 2 of Game of Thrones was filmed here. But it would still be a day until I would see any Game of Thrones sets because my first stop in Croatia was Zagreb!

I hopped on my Flixbus from Ljubljana to get over to Zagreb, Croatia. The ride was smooth, border crossing was a breeze - got my two stamps! I arrived at the bus terminal in Zagreb and it was quick and easy walk over to my hotel, Sheraton Zagreb Hotel. Despite my early check-in time, the hotel was able to accommodate and I was still able to check-in early (such a benefit to use the mobile check-in option at the Marriott Bonvoy app!).

I was really surprised at how nice the hotel was. I met someone on the trip and he was surprised I was staying there. The Sheraton was definitely one of the nicer and big box named hotels in the area for sure. I believe the Hilton was next door as well so with all these larger hotel brands coming to the city, it really seems like Croatia’s tourism is ramping up! The room was spacious and the lobby and ground floor restaurant looked inviting.

I didn’t spend much time in the hotel as I busy sputtering around the city. My initial plans actually fell through so I was scrambling to re-jig my plans. I had want to pull a Ljubljana stunt and try hopping on a bus to visit Plitvice Lakes but due to the winter hours, there was only a couple busses and the bus I wanted to take which was just before midday was not in service. The bus after, even at an hour later, would’ve made my visit too short. And with a few hours each way, it just wouldn’t be worth it. So I decided to wander into town and explore Zagreb.

The center of town was only a mere 15 — 20 minutes walk away from my hotel and very safe, albeit a little chilly! Because I was a little more leisurely that day, I left the hotel mid-afternoon and discovered that the market was closing up shop. That’s okay - it was super cold outside! I ducked into Zagreb 360 and although people may say it is pricey, the view from the top was gorgeous - Zagreb is a sprawling city!

Wandering throughout Zagreb in the winter was also a real bonus because there were maybe a handful of tourists that I ran into. I didn’t have to fight for people to get out of my photo or anything - it was virtually all mine! The old church, city centre, Strossmayer Promenade, war tunnel and the Museum of Broken Relationships were my highlights of the city. I also was there during the last day of Advent so was able to catch the tail end of the Christmas markets in the city and also in the city parks - score! I ended up making a friend who gave me a couple recommendations for food in the city and had shared a few glasses of wine with. Hi K!

Getting around Zagreb:

Walking - I literally walked this entire city! Because my hotel was super centrally located, it made all of Zagreb’s attractions very easy to visit with no complaints. If you’re visiting in the wintertime, however, be sure to bundle up because the weather has a bit of a bite!
Tram - Zagreb, like many Central European towns, utilize the tram system. I never had to use it but they were whizzing by my hotel and were PACKED! I’m good with walking, thanks.
Uber - They have Uber here! Had too much slivovica to drink? Feet too tired? Hop in an Uber and make your way home a lot easier!

What to see in Zagreb:

Dolac Market - I caught the tail end of this open-air market when I was visiting. I was surprised that they were still in operation during the bitter cold winter! It’s mainly a produce market but there is an underground, indoor market located inside and under the square. I didn’t care to check it out but you’re free to wander around if you’re curious!

Cathedral of Zagreb - The beautiful cathedral of Zagreb was under renovation when I visited but its iconic and distinctive décor may be seen from anywhere in the city. I’ve seen a lot of churches in my lifetime and didn’t bother to go inside but I admired its exterior from the outside (as I began to be harassed by someone who tried to be my tourguide - told ya that tourism is ramping up!).
St. Mark’s Church - Located in old town, this traditional church is one of the oldest churches in Croatia, dating back to the 13th century. It features a gorgeous, unique tiled roof which makes it stand out from other churches I’ve seen in the past. Definitely worth the visit and very close in proximity to many museums in the area!
Zagreb 360 - Up for a breathtaking view of the city? Sometimes you have to pay a price for it. The city view from Zagreb 360 is pretty phenomenal. I just didn’t like how the view was barred (literally!) and I had to questionably (and awkwardly) dangle my brand new iPhone 11 through the bars to get my photos. There is a cute café located at the top and your ticket is good for all day so if you want to re-visit during the evening like I did, it’s worth it! Zagreb at night was just as beautiful as it was during the day.
Strossmayer Promenade - Climbing up the hill to see the top of old town? Take a left off the main drag and up to walk through the Strossmayer Promenade. The promenade slopes upwards and winds through graffiti’d walls and houses some food stalls (not sure if this was just a winter thing!) and overlooks the city. I actually really enjoyed the view here, even moreso than the one at Zagreb 360 - plus, this one is free!
Museum of Broken Relationships - There are a lot of museums to choose from in Zagreb and to be honest, I was a little overwhelmed! But one of them stood out - the Museum of Broken Relationshps. Starting in Zagreb in 2016, this museum was dedicated to failed relationships. It showcased stories from all over the world where people donate and let go of items that they kept from said failed relationships and share their story. Whether it was a story of a broken romance, death of a loved one, an affair or one night stand, it really touched me. I spent the entire hour and more in the tiny museum and cried. SO good! They also have one in LA now too.

What to eat in Zagreb:

Strukli - Oh my god, this was one of the best things I ate on my entire European TRIP! Strukli is a traditional Croatian food that consists of chewy cheese-filled pancake. Pancake is the closest thing I can compare it to but the dough itself is chewier. Strukli can be savoury or sweet - pick your path! I went to La Struk near the old town in Zagreb and had the black truffle and cheese version. Absolutely HEAVENLY.
Squid - After having a long slew of meat-filled countries and cities, I needed to have a break. I heard the squid was really good in Croatia and it sure was! Grilled, smoky, tender and always served with thinly-fried potatoes. Delish.
Croatian wine - I surprisingly didn’t eat much when I was away in Zagreb BUT I did have a good amount of Croatian wine when I was there! Not bad at all! I had some local white wines which were dry and went well with the uber-rich strukli. I also tried some red varietals in the evening when I met up with a friend. Very easy to drink and smooth as well. It’s worth a try!

I had a one-night stint in Zagreb which was honestly enough for me. There is a plethora of museums to check out here - be sure to visit one that piques your interest! Other than that, the food was killer and Zagreb proved to be a great introduction to Croatia and my last “big” city of my trip until I would reach Thessaloniki. Time to really start relaxing!

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