ISTANBUL
ISTANBUL
#SIAinIstanbul
I’m so glad I intentionally planned my travel from Central to Eastern Europe in terms of city size. The first part of my trip was spent in decently-sized cities. After Milan, I went from small town to small town. I mean, they were cities but none of them were exactly sprawlingly large. After Skopje, I had taken a bus to Thessaloniki, the second largest city in Greece behinds Athens. The name brand stores, skyscrapers and condominiums were new sights to me again. I hadn’t seen those since maybe Zagreb, if that, or definitely Milan which was now weeks ago. But now I was finding myself in Istanbul, the biggest of all of them. So many people, boats, cars, markets, spices…it was dizzying. I’m thankful I had a gradual reintegration back to the big city life.
….because Istanbul was un-fucking-real.
When I was first planning my extension in Europe, I was like “Oh, wow. I can spend like 5 days in Italy, a week in Croatia, etc. I can really take my time like how normal people take vacations!”. But I had this crazy idea. I really wanted to end up in Istanbul. I had originally wanted to take a separate trip to Greece and Turkey but I thought “Hey, I’m already here. Might as well just go for it!”. And I did. It was a crazy itinerary - didn’t stray far from my usual travel style - and I am so happy to have made it.
I had a whirlwind of a stay in Thessaloniki. Almost, ALMOST extended my trip by one day because of a boy I had met. But I had to leave. To be honest, I was really looking forward to ending my trip decked out in luxury. The hammams, spas and a stay at the brand new JW Marriott Istanbul Bosphorus was calling my name. I did have to get through an overnight bus ride to the city first. And I gotta stay it was a little bit of a shit show.
First of all, I thought I was supposed to get the bus from the same bus station I had originally arrived at. NOPE. Luckily, the Greek man I had met dropped me off and accompanied me and drove me to the correct station and waited with me til my bus arrived. Second of all, the bus was AWESOME. Each seat had its own personal TV screen, bathroom, onboard tea and coffee service, juices, snacks and crackers - amazing! Better service than some airlines I know… BUT the bus attendant starting communicating with me via Google Translate saying creepy things like asking if he could touch my body. Not to mention I had to move seats like 4 fucking times. And by the time I got to Istanbul, I was in a completely different bus stop than what I had thought! The English version wasn’t working on the machines and was stuck for an hour as no one spoke English there. I pressed a bunch of buttons, followed the map (oh, mind you my Google Maps wasn’t working either) and found my way to my hotel! WOW.
I was a sweaty, annoyed mess when I arrived at the hotel just praying, literally PRAYING to the gods that my hotel room would be ready. It would be a stretch since it was 8:30am and you now how hotels go: check-in usually isn’t til about 3pm. But thank god for the Marriot Bonvoy app and that it was a brand new hotel (new as of December 2019) that they were able to graciously accommodate me and I was able to shower, nap (who am I?!), and freshen up! Godsend.
The hotel itself was beautiful and in a great location. Brand spankin’ new. Hits all the standard 5-star categories although things could be polished up a bit more (no real cups in the room for espresso, c’mon). Nice amenities, robes, and slipper. Spa was excellent. Hammam was questionable - I nearly walked in on someone getting treatment done as there was no signs or anything. The hotel was in the Karakoy district by the newly-proposed port and in the midst of many cute cafes, restaurants, and boutique shops. I loved it all. It was may be a leisurely 30-minute stroll to Taksim Square, the palace, the Grand Bazaar, Hagia Sofia, and more. Not to mention ferries to Kadikoy (the Asian side of Turkey) was at my doorstep as well as the tram and public transportation. Score.
As for the city itself? Where do I even begin? It was a total clusterfuck. My senses were completely overloaded with the smells, the amount of people, the sights… There is just so much to be seen in that city. I think I could have done Istanbul in 2 nights but 3 nights provided me a nice leisurely pace - plus, I probably wouldn’t have had time to do Kadikoy if I only had the 2 nights. It was the best place to end my cross country winter trip in Europe but so, so hard to say goodbye.
Getting around Istanbul:
Walking - I’m the worst for making these guides. I’m ALWAYS walking. Have you seen my calves? That’s why. Istanbul is immensely large but the major attractions are all within walking distance of eachother. Bring a good pair of walking shoes and you’re good to go!
Tram - After traveling in Europe for a month, I got used to seeing these little guys! I loved taking the tram. Such an efficient way of getting around. Do keep in mind that it may be packed during rush hour and you may need to squeeze.
Metro - After getting dropped off at a completely different bus terminal, I had to find my way to my hotel. I was able to operate the Istanbul Metro machines to spew out a ticket correctly and the whole trip was quick and easy (once I figured it out in Turkish). I think the metro is great if your intentions are to travel more out of the city and beyond Istanbul’s major attractions.
Ferry - There are a lot of ways of getting around Istanbul and the passenger ferry is one of them! I took the ferry over to Kadikoy to explore the area there - highly recommended! Always nice to get on the water because…I’M ON A BOAT, BITCH!
What to see in Istanbul:
Topkapi Palace - This was one of my favourite attractions in all of Istanbul! It’s so cool to visit the place that was the centre of all operations during the Ottoman Empire. Literally stepping into a bit of history! The palace grounds are sprawling - you’d be best to reserve atleast 2.5 - 3 hours here. I would also highly recommend getting the ticket for the Harem Apartments to really get a glimpse of how the Turks used to live back in the day. Uber luxurious and adorned with so many hand-painted tiles and spacious rooms. I spent a good time imaging what it was like to live there. Just incredible.
Hagia Sofia - The famed Hagia Sofia! You’d think by this time and after numerous trips to Europe, that I’d be tired of churches, temples, mosques and the like. Well, yes. I certainly am but it’d be foolish to skip this one. I would highly recommend getting the audioguide to truly understand the architectural works behind it.
Grand Bazaar - A zoo. A literal half roofed, half outdoor market with dizzying corridors filled with jewelry, incenses, clothing, spices, food stalls, restaurants and more. I had a great time in the Grand Bazaar, window shopping and avoiding eye contact from the many shopkeepers. It’s a great place to go if you want to go shopping or hunting for souvenirs. Like all large-scale markets, you’ll begin to see the same items over and over again.
Spice Bazaar - Your senses will be filled with strong scents of lemony sumac, paprika, Turkish delight, oregano, rose oil, and more. Spices are incredibly cheap here. I spent a few dollars on some small quantities of spices and rose oil. Stock up while you can!
Galata Tower - You’ll be able to see this tall, erect structure from either side of the Golden Horn. It is a 5th century tower and former prison that looks over the Bosphorus. I didn’t go up but my hotel was right by it. It’s lit up at night and is a little bit of an eerie, cool sight to see. Great to check out while dining in the neighbourhood or if you’re walking over to Taksim Square.
Taksim Square - A huge square surrounded by restaurants, pubs, transit and at night, shops. The walk here from Karakoy was a little bit of an uphill stroll but great along the pedestrian boulevard.
Istiklal Caddesi - This wide, large street is a busy pedestrian boulevard that leads to Taksim Square. It is lined with retail stores, restaurants, and bars which makes it a central location for dining out and shopping. The #1 circular tourist tram line does pass through here but other than that, it is closed to vehicles. Be sure to check out the side streets for lots of other restaurants off of the tourist drag.
Turkish hammam - When I first spontaneously decided to go to Istanbul, the only thing on my to-do list was experience a Turkish hammam. I spent the morning of my last full day in Istanbul at Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami, one of the more high-end hammam experiences in all of Istanbul. It’s traditional, you are fully in the nude with other women at times, and is ultimately relaxing. You will be scrubbed down and washed with oils - the after effect is evident. My skin was glowing for an entire week post-treatment. Highly recommend.
Kadikoy - Take the ferry over to Kadikoy, the Asian side of Turkey! It is a quick ferry ride over and it is incredibly cute, hipster and great to wander and explore around for a few hours in your day. There are some delicious restaurants on the other side of the pond that you wouldn’t want to miss out on!
Galata Koprusu - The bridge that crosses over the Golden Horn might not be a visual spectacle but there is so much happening over and under it that it’s an attraction if you happen to be passing through. The Galata Koprusu is a popular fishing spot - you’ll see it lined with local fishermen fishing from day to night. Underneath, you’ll find a number of restaurants specializing in fish. Don’t forget to walk through it - a dry and warm walkway filled with vendors and a few food stalls.
The Blue Mosque - Yes, I am a little tired of seeing mosques and such but I had to see the Blue Mosque aka Sultan Ahmad Mosque, in person. It is stunning from the outside. You can even see it from Karikoy. Please keep in mind that it is an active mosque and free to visit; however, please respect and honour its cultural guidelines. A scarf over your head, conservative clothing and silence is required when entering the mosque.
What to eat in Istanbul:
Menemen - By far, this was my favourite thing to eat in Istanbul - and I ate a lot. Menemen is Turkish scrambled eggs with peppers, eggs and spices. It tastes incredible with egg and washed down with yogurt. Delicious.
Durum - Okay, this might be my second favourite thing I consumed in Istanbul. I had stepped foot in the Grand Bazaar and saw a line forming for this little food stall. The guy was super fast - he was frying this meat and rolling it into this burrito-like roll. It’s wrapped in aluminum foil, you sit down, and you eat it with the unlimited herbs, pickles, and peppers that are open and offered communally. So fresh and so good…and not to mention cheap.
Kup griye - THE most heavenly dessert you will ever have in your life. I eat a lot of sweets and this was the best thing I have ever had in a VERY long time. It’s a trifle cup layered with ice cream, fresh caramel sauce, crushed pistachios, Chantilly cream, crunchy toffee, crushed candied almonds, and a biscuit. It’s heaven in a jar. And I keep forgetting the name of that French preparation for the candied almond crunch part - whatever it is, I need to make this at home ASAP.
Manti - Turkish meat dumplings, either boiled or deep-fried, and topped with a tangy garlic yogurt sauce, caramelized tomato sauce and browned butter. De-fucking-vine.
Balik ekmek - Up for some seafood in your diet and finding yourself near the ferry terminals or the Galata Koprusu? You’ll find these popular fish restaurants specializing in balk ekmek, or grilled fish sandwiches with vegetables. Be sure to get some of the accompanying pickles that they sell on the side. This common street food is hella cheap at 14 TRY.
Seafood - There is a street just off the Istiklal Caddesi that is dedicated to seafood. I mean, you’re right by the water so the correct thing to do would be indulge. You can order fresh whole fish and small tapas items and can really make quite the spread! DO IT.
Tavuk gogsu tatlisi - Chicken breast in a dessert? Wait, WHAT? Might sound weird but I saw this delicious-looking dessert in the window of Taksim Sutis. It’s a milk pudding with finely-shredded pieces of hand-washed chicken nestled inside. Don’t knock it til you try it - it’s super good!
Turkish delight - Well, this is obvious. Turkish delight is SO damn good here. I was never a huge fan of this dessert but for some reason, it’s not overbearingly sweet here in Turkey! So good. I really love the ones with pistachios inside.
Boza - Not sure how to describe it but boza is a super thick drink/pudding (?) made out of fermented grains. Its taste and texture is very similar to applesauce. Very good! Topped with roasted chickpeas - a really delicious way to take an afternoon break!
Sahlep - Are you visiting Istanbul in the wintertime? Then you MUST try sahlep. This was my favourite drink in Turkey - I had this twice! It is a thick and creamy drink dusted with ground cinnamon. It tastes like a thick version of Mexican horchata!
Lamb pilav - There are tons of little nooks and hole-in-the-wall restaurants in the city that are dirt cheap. My first meal in Istanbul was lamb pilav. Roasted lamb with rice - super fatty and delicious and always served with Turkish pickles on the side. Dreaming of this now.
Mezze - Turkish tapas. Think of it as small plates…but covering the entire table. Do it! Tons of vegetables, meat dishes and more. Turkish brunch spreads are also similar too with lots of small dishes to feast on.
Kumpir - A very popular Turkish street food, this takes the term “loaded baked potato” to the next level. Large, jacket potatoes are slathered with a ton of butter, Edam cheese and alllllllllll the toppings you can think of. Some common toppings include hot dogs, couscous, chili sauce and other items I had no idea was but ate anyways - deliciously heavy!!!
Burek - Am I tired of buret yet? Nope. But this was the BEST vegetarian ones I’ve ever tried. Be sure to stop by Levanten Karakoy for the flakiest (almost croissant-like) and meltiest cheese ever. Drooling. I miss this so much.
To say I thoroughly enjoyed my 3 full days and nights in Istanbul would be an understatement. From the food to the culture to the palaces and to the people I met, I had the most incredible time. It was the best place to end my trip (and also my last international trip pre-quarantine!). Great memories overall to live by. Looking forward to the days where I can travel overseas again…