BELGRADE

“I’ll be in Amsterdam, Florence, Paris, Malta…and Belgrade, Serbia!”

“You’re going to Serbia?”

“Yeah!”

“…why?”

That was a common expression when I was talking to my friends initially. I know what you’re thinking… What’s in Serbia? Honestly, I had no idea what to expect either but I was aware of one thing: the food was going to be out of control. My old sugar daddy is Serbian so I was exposed to a lot of great Serbian food (albeit, hard to find in Vancouver!). Plus, he’s there every couple of years and gave me the down low. It couldn’t be that bad, could it?

The real reason I visited Serbia was because I was having such a difficult time deciding where to go because my mom had either a) been to all of the countries I was suggesting or b) was planning to go there on a tour in a month and a half’s time (and you thought I was the crazy traveler!). So…I decided on Serbia because I knew it was going to be dirt cheap and it really would be the road less traveled (and it really was!). I literally had no expectations going there.

If you are aware of any Serbian history, you’ll know that it was once a part of Yugoslavia. Overrun by a socialist regime and inter-state wars, Serbia declared their independence in 2006 – only 13 years ago! I believe part of the reason why not a lot of people have discovered Serbia is because of their recent history which you can see in all its glory at the Kalemagden Fortress. You can walk and explore through the entire fortress, overlooking the beautiful Danube and Sava Rivers, wonderfully deserted with only a handful of tourists in sight.

And that was one of the best parts about Serbia – its sheer Eastern European authenticity. On any given day, I could literally count on my hand the number of tourists I would see – on one hand at most. It was such a cool feeling. Less tourists than Myanmar, which I loved, Belgrade is not touristy – and it shows. There aren’t a ton of museums of tourist structures in place which was a nice break from the amount of sightseeing I did in Amsterdam. I relied a lot on my own research in a limited amount of travel blogs and my Serbian friends.

At the time of my visit, they were beginning extensive construction in one of the main plazas, a brand new Courtyard by Marriott Belgrade City Centre opened up (which I stayed at), and the overall aesthetics were being improved. The Courtyard was an excellent place to be situated in – right in the heart of the city and walking distance to Kneza Mihaila, a major shopping and eatery street in the main drag of the city centre, the Kalmegaden Fortress, and the trendy Dolcor district.

Know before you go:

There isn’t much about Belgrade online so a couple things that you should know before going:

The currency used here is Serbian dinar (RSD). There are many money exchange places where you can exchange that are reasonable. You cannot exchange outside of Serbia.
Vegan places are incredibly difficult to come by. It is very meat and potato heavy in Serbia and the portions are insanely huge. Money will go a long way here. We used about the equivalent of 50 euros for two days and even then, we were struggling to use it all up! This includes money for excessive alcohol (yes, excessive because I went and drank alone by myself and I have a huge alcohol tolerance) and I still had leftover! Impressive.
Smoke. Smoking is still very much permitted in restaurants and public establishments so keep this in mind. I really do not enjoy the smell of cigarette smoke at all so eating meals out I had to get used to it.

Getting around Belgrade:

Taxi – Unfortunately, ridesharing does not exist in Serbia. Taxis definitely do but you need to ensure you are getting into a legitimate one as taxi scams are a thing. Like you would do in any city, you’ll want to ensure that the meter is running. Cabs will take both euros and Serbian dinar.
Walking – We literally walked everywhere. Even in the pouring rain. There is a bus system there but we never used it, unfortunately. But because we were based in a super central area, it worked out great – no complaints here.

Things to do in Belgrade:

Kalemagden Fortress – Visit the former fortress in all its glory. The amount of land this takes over is impressive and there are lots of plaques stating the history spread throughout. Within the park (it is situated in a park), there are many museums and restaurants that you may visit. The view from the top is beautiful.
Kneza Mihaila – This is the main drag of the city centre, filled with tons of shopping and eateries. It ends right at the base of the Kalemagden Fortress and is a great area to roam around in. Probably the most touristic area I had seen while in Belgrade.
Temple of Saint Sava – The largest Orthodox church in eastern Europe. The real gem here is going underneath into the crypt – gorgeous paintings and ceiling portraiture.
Dolcor – Dolcor is new a trendy industrial district in Belgrade that is a short distance from the city center. Great coffee shops, bars may be found in this area.
National Theatre – Do try and take time to see a performance here! The interiors, although old, are beautiful. Gold embellishments, white marble, red velvet seats. We scored some complimentary tickets to see a dramatic play here from our Director of Sales from the hotel – thanks Milos! It was all in Serbian but pretty easy to follow along – great actors!
Eat (and drink) your heart out – I always say the best way to explore a new city is through its food. The food in Serbia is incredible! The food is super hearty, filling and simple – loved it. Grilled meats, handmade sausages, and breads all washed down with traditional rakija! Definitely miss the food here – it was the best part!
Beogradski Market – This place was pretty new! Found them on Instagram. It’s a cool, hip and trendy art space that has a handful of food vendors, craft beer and wine. There was a photoshoot happening there at the time so we just browsed quickly since most of the vendors were closed. I can imagine this place to be bumpin’ during night time!

What to eat in Belgrade:

Grilled meats – Serbians love their meat! Make sure you try and get an assortment of grilled meats – beef, lamb, chicken – all good here.
Cevapi – Traditional Serbian sausages. They eat this as a snack, for breakfast, with beer… It’s salty, it’s small, it’s satisfying! They even come flattened as well in some establishments. Please ask for kajmak, a light cream, and freshly-cut raw onions – classic accompaniments to eat with this.
Pasoulj – White bean stew. This is a real stick-to-your-bones dish. No-fuss comfort food. Eat this with bread – it’s very filling!
Burek – My favourite! It’s a pastry – very similar to phyllo dough – filled traditionally with minced meat. I also tried a vegetarian version with mushroom which was equally as good. You can get this at any bakery for dirt cheap. Great to take on the go – we took ours before hopping on our plane to Malta!
Rakija – You cannot go to Serbia without trying some rakija! Rakija is a Serbian brandy, typically made out of plum. It’s strong and may be served at room temperature or slightly chilled. I loved trying all the different types of rakija at Rakia Bar – just behind my hotel. My favourite ones was the deluxe raspberry. The owner of the Rakia Bar is also a gem to speak with – super knowledgeable!
Cocktails – Who knew that there was a cocktail scene in Belgrade? It is a growing scene and I happened to visit quite a bunch! Bar Central and D Bar featured well-balanced cocktails – bartenders were lovely to chat with here as well.
Coffee – Coffee culture is a thing here! Coffee is strong and the coffee shops are more than Instagrammable. Loved the coffee at Przionica D598 in the Dolcor district. You must also try the Turkish coffee as well at any coffee shop – super strong! Plus, a side of Turkish delight – yes, please!
Ajvar – This one of my favourite Serbian foods to eat, even before I went to Serbia! It is a roasted red pepper spread that goes well on ANYTHING. Bread, eggs, meats, etc. It’s so simple and delicious – makes for a great appetizer!

I will say that Serbia will most likely change in the next 5 – 10 years. It’s really not set up to welcome tourists at the moment but I’m still glad I went. I was really able to explore the city safely and carve out my own path. I’m really interested in seeing how this city will evolve in the years to come.

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