MARRAKESH
MARRAKESH
#SIAinMorocco
I knew that I wanted to spend my 30th birthday far, far away from colleagues, friends, and social circles. Reflecting nearly a year after that trip, I can honestly say that I was in a very dark place. I was a month and a bit into my new job at a cannabis startup, winning pole competitions right, left and centre, in decent shape and health and thought I was on top of the world. I had struggled a lot with depression earlier in the year due to my previous job and lack of career growth but I thought things were going to change. I mean, hey, I was turning 30 and about to embark on a new decade of adventures, personal growth and self-actualization.
The original plan was to be alone on my birthday — that was always the idea. I had wanted to be alone in the Sahara desert, looking at the stars in a luxury tent camp. As I get older I seem to cherish the moments I have to myself and value my alone time. However, my dad had different plans and wanted to tag along. You see, we had traveled to Mexico City the year prior and he drunkenly told me how much he loved traveling with me and couldn’t wait for my birthday next year as it would be a traditional. Well, fast forward to 2019 and he ended up coming with me on my birthday trip to Spain and Morocco, go figure!
Morocco has always been a dream of mine to visit. The textiles, the spices, the ceramics, the art, the haggling! It was all something I had envisioned in my mind but nothing could have prepared me for the wondrous trip I had and experienced. This was about the time when the live-action Aladdin came out (obsessed!) and stepping foot in Fes where I originally touched down in Morocco was just like walking the fictionalized streets of Agrabbah. I believe they shot or were inspired by the souks of Marrakesh so it’s no wonder how nostalgic and familiar it felt. It was a feast for the senses!
Marrakesh is huge and there are so many areas to stay in. We were set to stay in Marrakesh for three nights. It was important to me to stay in a riad. A riad is traditional Moroccan accommodation, old palaces that have been converted into housing. Most riads will consist of a pool, a solarium directly above the pool, your own private accommodation, rooftop access and in the mornings, traditional Moroccan breakfast which is a treat (and a feast!).
There are SO MANY riads to choose, all with competitive pricing and similar offerings. I knew that I wanted to stay directly in the Medina for the first two nights so I chose Dar Al Assad, a riad in the centre of the Medina and not too far from Jemaa el-Fnaa, the main square in Marrakesh. Although the Medina is quite busy, the riad was located just off one of the main pathways down a quiet little alley. It was the perfect place to wind down and getaway from the crowds.
To mix things up a little, I chose to stay at the Le Meridien N’Fis which was a sprawling resort close to the other major resorts and large-scale hotels. Bonus, it was near the airport too and also close to La Mamounia where I had booked a luxurious Moroccan hammam experience hours before my flight to Munich (more on that later!). The hotel, although old, was a very short ride away from the Medina, another decent area to stay in.
Bring your sunscreen, pack a hat, and your walking shoes - Marrakesh is HUGE and you will be dong a lot of walking and exploring here! Not to mention you’ll want to loosen a notch on your pants too because the food here is so delicious and cheap. Seriously… buckle up, because you are in for a ride.
Know before you go:
If you choose to stay in a riad, don’t be alarmed that there are no locks on the doors. Moroccans are very trusting and it is customary for them to not have doors in their riads. If you don’t feel safe, you can always request for a safe to store your valuables in.
Haggle! It’s a way of life here! Bargaining in Morocco was so different than any other countries I have ever been to. Typically in other countries you’ll be happy if you get 50% off at most. In Morocco, it’s commonplace to haggle things down to 70% off - I’m not kidding. Don’t be a dick and lowball them right away - it’s an art! Have fun with it and the vendors - I know I sure did!
Moroccans are aggressive. You can’t just politely say “no” once - try at least ten times. Don’t lose patience with them - they are all super friendly but it takes some getting used to, for sure!
Beware of add-ons! If you’re dining in Jemaa el-Fnaa for dinner, everything is a la carte. Salad, pickles, one sausages, one side, etc. They will charge you for it. So, no need to play nice. Just be aware of what you are ordering (or not ordering).
Portions are HUGE! Note that whilst eating out in Morocco. When they say it feeds two, it feeds double the amount. I’m not lying.
What to see in Marrakesh:
The Medina - A main attraction here is the large Medina, filled with souks, carpet shops, jewelry, restaurants, leather tanneries, and more. Seriously, there is so much going on in here! You can spend a good hour or hours plural here getting lost, bargaining, noshing and shopping. There is so much to do here and spend money on…for cheap! Common things to shop for? Moroccan poufs, leather products, carpets, spices, and Moroccan oil.
Hammam at La Mamounia - I am not lying here - THIS IS THE BEST HAMMAM IN THE WORLD. I have visited spas all over the world as well as hammams and nothing compares to the Moroccan experience. Be sure to book your appointment ahead of time and also leave a couple hours prior to it to fully enjoy all of the pools (indoor and outdoor) that La Mamounia has. The price includes access to all the pools, a traditional Moroccan scrub with black perfumed soap and a luxurious all-you-can-eat buffet. I’m talking shucked oysters, the freshest catch of fish, Moroccan specialties and more. This was one of the spa experiences in my life.
Jemaa el-Fnaa - The main square in Marrakesh. It’s a sprawling square with lots of vendors, juices, and snake charmers during the daytime. It’s hot and humid when the sun’s up and personally, I didn’t find it all too interesting. It wasn't until I wandered into the square in the evening til I realized how alive the square was! There was so much LIFE…and not to mention, food! The whole square is numbered off with different food vendors all around and such a great opportunity to try a variety of Moroccan foods. There are also tons of buskers surrounding the periphery of the square which is pretty entertaining to watch as well!
The Yves Saint Laurent Museum - Whether you are a fashion lover or not, the YSL museum is worth visiting. It’s substantially smaller than the one in Paris but it’s a great air conditioned break, showcasing some of YSL’s most historic pieces and the timeline of his life. He was an icon and due to his many visit to Marrakesh, it’s no wonder they built a sanctuary for him here.
Jardin Marjorelle - This is the garden area attached to the YSL Museum. There are so many different flora and fauna on display here, not to mention the beautiful contrasting colours of violet blue against the tanned buildings. Beautiful.
Gueliz - The “new” Marrakesh is Gueliz. It’s a hop and a skip away from the YSL Museum and is filled with modern buildings, shopping centres and restaurants. I spent time here twice on the advice of a local whom I had met in the souks. Do stop by for a taste of France at Grande Cafe de la Post which is an iconic institution in and of itself and dine at the fantastic Azar for some upscale Moroccan fare and entertainment.
Bahia Palace - I spent so much time in the souks that I hardly had any time seeing any “touristy” places. I did visit Bahia Palace which is an old palace with beautiful intricate designs and history. It’s worth seeing if you happen to be in the area.
Place des Ferblantiers - Need a break from sightseeing? Place des Ferblantiers is within close proximity to the palaces and a nice place to wind down, take in the palm tree-lined square and cool off with a beverage. Don’t make a trip out here specifically, but it’s nice to visit if you find yourself in the area.
Le Jardin Secret - The Secret Garden! This hidden oasis is an old 19th century palace with a traditional Islamic garden, ancient irrigation systems, and a cafe to cool down in.
Ben Youssef Mosque - Although non-Muslims are not allowed entry I think it’s still worth a walk to get the general feel of the area. It is one of the oldest mosques in Morocco and considered to be one of the prettiest. You can still admire the mosaics and plasterwork from the outside or at a distance.
What to eat in Marrakesh:
Tagine - Tagine refers to the vessel to which many Moroccan dishes are cooked. There are so many different types of dishes but I think my most favourite being lamb tagine and the chicken, pear and preserved lemon. Just so, so good and super flavourful.
Couscous - You’ll find this on any menu. It’s large and very filling. This usually comes with any type of tagine. Make sure to order something that can really soak up that sauce!
Mezze - Moroccan tapas! I had an amazing mezze meal at Azar in Gueliz. There is such a wide range of mezze here and you can choose from a small set of six mezze to up to twenty different mezze! outstanding.
Roast lamb - Lamb here is so succulent and fresh. I don’t know what they do but it’s always melt-in-your-mouth delicious. We had the roast lamb at Azar as well and although it was advertised it feeds 2, it totally feeds 4! My dad and I are both HUGE eaters and we didn’t even come close to finishing this. SO good though. We made a good effort and took our time which was rewarding as we got the catch one of the best bellydancing performances I had ever seen.
Mint tea - This is something you’ll encounter just about anywhere in Morocco. Be aware that the tea comes sweetened so be sure to ask for tea that doesn’t have sugar if you want to keep your amount of sweets down.
Street food - There is SO much food to eat in the streets of Marrakesh. I remember seeing this sandwich-like thing with a bunch of different minced meats, egg and vegetables in it all fried up in a red sauce and served up in a warmed up bun. I don’t know what this was called but it was delicious and the lines alone are enough to prove its deliciousness!
Pastilla - A Moroccan specialty! Minced meat (traditionally pigeon meat but chicken is commonly found) encased in a puff pastry and topped with powdered sugar. Don’t knock it til you try it.
Ahhhh, I really loved Marrakesh. It was a dream come true and I am so glad to have celebrated my birthday in the most bustling place ever.